Wednesday, February 8, 2012

It's Pottery time, Ladies!


When you are stationed in Europe, one of the trips you should make, as a woman, at least, is to Poland.  And any man who hears his wife is headed for Poland knows that by the end of the trip their bank accounts will be emptied.  Why, you may ask?  It is because of all the beautiful pottery.  All of it is hand thrown and hand painted.  You can use it in your oven, microwave, refrigerate it, serve from it, and eat off it.  I know several people who have all of their serving dishes and table settings purchased from there.  When we were in Germany, many years ago, I was only able to go once.  I have always wanted to go back and load up.  That is, until last week.

One of the little known secrets of Morocco is their pottery trade.  A friend of mine named Heather had told me of a place called Sale Pottery and I have wanted to see it.  Well, last week, the time came.  There were a total of 6 of us that journeyed the 15 min to, what could be compared to, a strip mall full of pottery and other small shops.  Now, unlike Polish pottery, not all of Morocco's pottery should be used to cook.  They still use lead in their paints here.  But Heather frequents this area often and knows exactly which shops use lead-based paint and which do not.  So, as sheep follow their shephard, we followed Heather.

The ladies: Back (L to R): Heather, Michelle, Libby.  Front (L to R): Josselyn, Lindsey
She took us to shops that had artisans working their craft in the back, stores that painted their work, and others that did not.  We saw pottery that was meant for the garden (that would be your yard, if you're in the states), hand-spun rugs, and a shop that also had silver tea services (which is actually made of copper, then heated to turn a silver color.  That would be the poor man's knock-off of the real thing).  We also found a back alley that had several hand-carved wooden furniture shops, basket shops, and iron-work shops.  I had a budget of 800 Dirhams (roughly $100) to spend.  I was scrupulous as I shopped.  I was only going to get things that I would use and not fall into the "OOH!  That is so pretty!" trap.  Just like Poland, it would be very easy to empty your bank account there.  In fact, it is where I will go shopping for family and friends before we had back.
Preparing the clay

A master pot thrower

Painstakingly hand painting the dishes

Ready for the 2nd firing



One of the shops

These are eggs that are meant for the garden.  You would put lights inside.

This pottery is made in many different areas of Morocco.


What you see piled high are Tajiin pots.  That is a traditional dish made here.

One of the odd things we saw.  This table and chairs is made of silver (OK, probably some other metal and then finished in silver.  Either way . . .).  I tried to move a chair and had a very difficult time.  It was extremely heavy.

We called this place the "Lamp shop."  Can you guess why?  I want a matching set for my living room.  Just sayin'.

Michelle next to a floor lamp at the lamp shop.

This man hand carves people and scenes.  I bought a village scene from him.




Sunday, January 22, 2012

Trip to Spain Day 5/6


At the hotel we were staying at this last night, breakfast was not included.  So, being on the budget we were on, back to the grocery store we went.  1 box of Frosted Flakes, 1 Liter or milk, some bananas, bread and ham later and we were all set to go.  I’ll tell you, eating in your hotel  room makes leaving for the day much easier. 

On our last full day in Spain we had 2 cities to visit.  The first was a coastal town called Malaga where an old walled palace-fortress left over from the Moors stands in the middle of town.  The other was the port we would take the ferry from the next morning.  
The walls of Alcazaba

Miniature of Alcazaba
Finding the location of things can be tricky when the only maps you have to go on are on your cell phone.  I had Jake’s Blackberry and was toggling between google maps and the GPS, which only showed us where we were, but without a destination.  It was a little tricky, but luckily for us, once on the right road, Alcazaba is pretty hard to miss.  The place is a massive complex.  The walls are still standing and I think they have been doing some restoration on the buildings inside, because they were in pretty good condition for being 800 years old (or more).  There were beautiful gardens being watered by the same irrigation system that originally watered them.  You can climb on, what I’m sure once was, the watch towers.  There are 3 different sections of the complex with the lower end having many existing structures.  In the middle the wall narrows significantly and there are no buildings.  The wall shapes itself with the contour of the hillside it rests on.  Pretty neat.  At the top are more of the ruins of the place.  We weren’t able to go there because of time, and also because, quite frankly, we didn’t want to hike up a steep hill with the 2 little ones.

The stairs leading to the entrance of Alcazaba


On one of the lookout towers


A second lookout

View from a tower of Malaga

The line running down the sidewalk is an irrigation stream

Entrance to the garden.  Notice the vines creating a ceiling over the walk-way

Looking down a well in the garden

Me, Rachel, and David

The doorways into the buildings inside Alcazaba


A neat door


Before you enter Alcazaba there is a Roman theatre.  I learned a lot about theatres when I was in Israel (of all places), so it was fun for me to be able to say that an American tour guide got it wrong.  When we got there there was a group with a tour guide so we were able to listen in a little.  She wasn’t very good and kind of condescending, but we weren’t paying for her, so se la vi.  Anyway, she called it an amphitheatre, but she is wrong.  Amphitheatres are a full oval and were used for gladiator events and the like.  A theatre is usually a semi-circle.  One of the best ways to tell is that an amphitheatre’s first row of seats is up off the ground by quite a bit.  A theatre has seats all the way to the floor.  This theatre was a half-circle with seats all the way to the floor.  Ha, ha.  I’m right and she’s wrong.  And now you have your little piece of historical knowledge.  The one thing we did learn from her, though, was what was covered by a glass pyramid.  Under the pyramid were Roman ruins where they would ferment all the gross parts of fish along with some wine for 2 weeks and then use it as a delicacy to flavor their dishes.  Why anyone would want to flavor their food with fermented fish guts is beyond me.

Our visit wasn’t long in Malaga because we still had a long drive to the port city of Tarifa.  We had no reservation for a hotel that night because online we couldn’t find anything within our budget.  But having just spent several days in Spain, we realized, at least in the winter, finding a place would probably not be hard.  We drove past Tarifa before we started to look for hotels.  We tried one, but it was closed for the season.  The next one we tried was perfect.  In fact, the evening was story-book perfect, except for dinner.  The hotel had the quaint B&B feel to it.  There was a large “backyard” with a swing set and teeter-totter for the kids to play on as well as A LOT of room for the kids to play tag.  It was a great place for them to burn off all their energy.  






We were not far from the beach, so the owners directed us to a path across the street that would lead us to the beach.  It was a quick 5 minute walk before we hit a beautiful, sandy beach.  As a mother, I sat on the beach watching the boys throw stones into the sea and the girls collect sea shells as the sun set.  I couldn’t believe we were sitting on the beach in Spain, there where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic, with Morocco in the distance (yes, we would see it), watching the sun set.  Jake laughed because it was just too perfect.
You can see Morocco in the distance




Sam searching for shells

Rachel




Everyone got in on the action

Me and baby

Out of all the "kids," the one who falls in the water is Dad (notice the jeans)

We headed down town to try to find a place to eat and found a bar open that served Pizza.  This night was Friday night, and Friday’s at our house are pizza night, so the kids wanted pizza.  We ordered our pizzas and I ordered ravioli.  The food was terrible, but it was food.  I wish I had been able to sample real cuisine from the many restaurants there, but 8:30 is just a little too late for me.  Oh well.  Jake was out of Euros, so while he went to find an ATM to pay for dinner there was an alleyway across the street where I took the 5 older kids and we had running races while we waited.  The kids had a good time. 

After dinner we headed back to the hotel where we put the 2 little ones to bed and then went down to the restaurant for dessert.  They had a fire burning and made us dessert sample plates with cheesecake, white chocolate mousse, and flan.  It was delicious.


The next morning we had to be up and ready to go pretty early.  The ferry left at 10 am and we had to be on it.  We got up and quick got dressed and headed down to breakfast.  They knew we would be eating early, so they had everything ready for us.  It was a rather large breakfast with meats, boiled eggs, bread and cheese.  A good way to start the day.  It was then off to the ferry to get back to Morocco.  The winds were very calm, so the ride was much smoother than the ferry to Spain.  I don’t think any of us felt even the slightest hint of seasickness.  



It is funny when you get to Morocco.  We had spent a week with people obeying traffic laws, people crossing in cross walks, and everything being clean and well taken care of.  As soon as you drive out of the port in Tangier everything is suddenly Moroccan again.  People crossing wherever they choose, almost getting run off the road, and nothing seems to make sense.  It is kind of depressing.  But here is home for the next 6 months, so we will enjoy what we can.

Saturday, January 7, 2012

Trip to Spain Day 4

One of the old cathedrial-mosque doors now closed
Trying to get out of the old city can prove to be a little complicated.  Jake went to get the van and it took him an hour to get back.  He said that because of where he exited the parking garage he had to travel all over the city’s one-way street in order to get back to our hotel.  And after he got back there was still one stop we had to make before we could leave – a wooden, made in Italy, absolutely adorable cat clock where the tail is the pendulum and the eyes go back and forth.  The toy store was at the end of our street and we couldn’t help but fall in love with it.  Here’s to hoping the kids (OK, Jordan) doesn’t break it.

This was the day we headed over to Cordoba which was the seat of the Caliphate back in the 8th century clear till the 13th century.  Like in Sevilla, there is a big cathedral there which used to be a mosque, but I will get to that later.  When we first arrived in Cordoba we setteled into our hotel, which, again, was more a 1 star hostel.  But it had everything we needed.  One room had 3 twin beds, 2 of which we shoved together to accommodate all the boys sleeping together, along with dad in the other twin.  The girls shared the other room which had a queen bed, a twin, and then the baby bed.  Again, it was what we needed and nothing more.  And that is how you do a family vacation on a strict budget.
All 6 kiddos posing in the hotel

The girls' room (+ baby)

The boys' room

There is a lot to see in Cordoba and we had a lot of fun.  Jake surprised us all by first hiring a horse-drawn carriage to take us around the city.  The girls had been asking, but it is kind of expensive, so I kept telling them no.  It was a great way to see the different parts of the city and hear a little about the history.  There is still a large Islamic influence in the city.  They even have a hammam, which is a version of a spa.  We went all through the different old sections of the area and you can tell the Arab section by the architecture.  The tile patterns are the same as they are today, and the doors are all the old, decorative kind.  It was interesting to see how the Arab architecture hasn’t changed in 2000 years.
In front of the carriage

Kids on the carriage

The oldest Catholic church in Cordoba

Beautiful molding

Look closely at the door - its Arab, but the molding has been turned Christian

Just neat

Old, Roman columns

These are the Christmas lights all over the city

OK, this is not a picture of wires, but rather the braces of the balcony

Window molding again


Church tower

Bye, bye horsie.  Thanks for the ride.

The next thing we went to see was the cathedral.  Unlike the Seville Cathedral, this one didn’t try to change much of the structure.  There are arches all through the building with columns every 10-12 feet.  The area where the Imam or Caliph would conduct prayers is still there, as well as some of the Arabic script.  You can even see the room which was dedicated solely to the Caliph.  It is unreachable, however.  The chapels they built within are gorgeous.  And the door frames were awe inspiring.  One really neat thing they have on display there are some of the hand-written books from the bible dating back to the 13th century.  Amazing.
Outside there was a bridge with an arch at one end and an Arab-type building on the other that we walked down to take pictures.  It is just so fun to be there and see all the history.  But after that the kids had reached their limit, so we headed back to the hotel. 

Gotta love the old architecture turned bank

The orange grove courtyard

One of the main gates into the orchard

Same gate a little closer

Samantha and Rachel playing in the fountain in the orchard

Joseph playing in the fountain


Daddy and Jordan playing in the fountain

One of the doors into the cathedral

The intricate design of an Arab door


The archways in the cathedral.  The red and white are done by alternating brick and stone



Inside the cathedral

The old clock mechanism from the 1700s

Some artifacts from the days of the mosque

Hand-written books from the New Testament from the 1400s

These are stones that were found that have the names of the workers of the mosque on them (in Arabic)

Looking up one of the domes


Turn this on its side and it is a gold-leafed processional piece still carried today

A statue of one of the marters killed by the Moors at the time of conquest back in year 780 aprox.
I love the ceilings!

This surrounds the area where the Caliph lead the prayers

Overheard an English speaking tour guide say this room was for the caliph, originally, but upon later research, I may have heard tomb, not room.  Still not 100% sure

Some of the stain-glass (picture taken by Rachel)

More ceilings

Main chapel

More ceilings

The choir

Entering in the gate to the bridge

The bridge

All of us on the bridge

The building on the opposite side of the bridge

Samantha

The front of the gate

We rested and the little ones took a nap before heading out for dinner.  We found a McDonalds not too far and it had a great play area.  It wasn’t just a play area, it was a little sports center with a basketball hoop, and obstacle course with a timer, and then the climbing area.  The kids had a great time racing each other and themselves.  It was a great way to burn off some of the hamburgers they had just eaten.  
The climbing structure (can you spot Samantha?)

After dinner we headed back to the old part of the city to walk around.  Jake wanted to park where we had parked before, but there were no open spots, so we just kept driving.  Pretty soon we found ourselves on the main strip through town and they still had the Christmas market up along with some carnival rides.  BINGO!  We found a parking garage and headed over.  It was a good thing Jake had all the money.  I could have gone crazy buying stuff!  The kids and I rode a little dragon roller-coaster ride which was a lot of fun.  They even gave us each a punching-balloon thing.  The kids were boppin’ it everywhere they went.  After seeing the Christmas market we went to the plaza to see if we could find an ice cream shop.  We didn’t, but we found a lot more rides, some street acts, and a lot of people.  It was a fun little walk and the perfect way to end the evening.
Riding the mini roller caoster